Fresh Heights

By MELISSA BELL
TIME Magazine, May 29, 2008

Tibet and Nepal, the long-standing darlings of the Himalayan tourist trade, have not been the most welcoming countries for visitors over the past few months. Foreign tourists have been barred from Tibet since March’s anti-Chinese protests. Political troubles in Nepal, where recent elections were marred by bombings, have deterred many holidaymakers. Understandably, some travelers are now beginning to look across these borders to the Indian Himalayas, where the state of Uttarakhand — until recently known as Uttaranchal — has quietly been building its own tourist trade. It offers drop-dead gorgeous trekking — the same as you would find in Nepal and Tibet, but in a less restive and less discovered environment than that of its neighbors.

For Hindus, the area has been a travel destination since pre-Vedic times, and pilgrimage trails still crisscross the mountains. The northern district of Garhwal, bordering Tibet, is the largest region and is the most popular with visitors due to its many holy places. One such site, Gangotri, is dedicated to the goddess Ganga, whose temple is located just below the Gaumukh glacier, the source of the sacred river Ganges. Garhwal also boasts two World Heritage sites: the Valley of Flowers, which erupts every spring into a carpet of colorful blooms, and Nanda Devi, the second highest peak in the Indian Himalayas. For environmental reasons, the peak has been off limits to climbers since the early 1980s, but day treks can be made to lower regions of the sanctuary.

The community-owned and -operated Mountain Shepherds tour company, mountainshepherds.prayaga.org, organizes excursions in Garhwal. These trips use locally hired staff and cost around $50 a day, which includes guides, cooks, equipment and transportation. Mountain Shepherds also plans to start longer excursions to local villages in the summer. Two visitors at a time will be able to travel with shepherds herding their flocks in the Himalayan meadows, with village homes available for rent.  [more]

Cover

Inside

Backpacking with hill shepherds

NOVEMBER 5, 2007
Lata Village, Niti Valley

It started off as my much awaited trek in the Garhwal Himalayas and turned into an impressive first-hand account of a small, yet smart, initiative. The setting: Nanda Devi Sanctuary Trek against the backdrop of the spectacular 7,816-metre Nanda Devi peak. [more]

A report by Divya Naithani

During a trek in the Himalayan range Yoga sessions were conducted as a trial from 3rd and 18th June 2007. The participants were university students from USA who were on a geographical study trip. The Yoga class was optional for the participants.

The journey started from Rishikesh moving on to Lohajung, Bedni, Aali, Pathar nachauniya, Lata, Gamshali, Lata Kharak, Saini Kharak and Haridwar.

A total of 14 sessions were conducted where the following concepts and techniques were covered:

1. Physical exercises
2. Breathing exercises
3. Conscious Relaxation
4. Meditation
5. Yoga purification techniques aiming at improved immune system
6. Importance of healthy life-style and practical tips for the same under
   • Aahar – diet related topics
   • Vihar – rest and recreation
   • Aachar – routines and discipline
   • Vichar – thoughts and attitudes

Participants felt that the physical exercises helped them get the required warm up before starting the trek everyday. Conscious relaxation was found to be rejuvenating. Breathing exercises helped build up better lung capacity that helps with long walks. Healthy meals (as suggested under Yogic Sattvik category) were provided to the participants to ensure good stamina and proper energy flow through various systems.

The sessions were conducted by Ms. Divya Naithani, a qualified Yoga trainer from Mumbai trained at the oldest organised centre for learning Yoga - The Yoga Institute, Mumbai. A student at The Yoga Institute since 2001, Divya has been conducting sessions since 2004 and has an experience of teaching a range of participants – children, youngsters, teacher, corporate executives, senior citizens, etc.

Yoga could be included as an important part of regular treks particularly to maximise the benefits of being in the land where Yogis initiated this entire art and science of healthy living. Pollution free environment is ideal for breathing exercises thereby increasing lung capacity. With no distractions of city life, meditation is easier to learn so that it can be practised once back to routine. For forthcoming Yoga treks, the following is suggested:

• Lesser hours of walking per day (ideally not more than 4-5 hours of walking) so that more time may be devoted to meditation and other yogic techniques.
• Morning and evening sessions to be conducted such that some techniques are covered in the mornings and long relaxations followed by meditation in evenings.

Overall, it was a wonderful experience, a dream come true for every Yoga student to be able to practice Yoga at its holy abode – the Himalayas.

One June 2, a group of students from Georgia Southern University, Statesboro, GA and Nature-Link Institute, Boone, NC traveled to the Garhwal regions of the Himalaya. Dr. Keith Bosak from Georgia Southern University and Laura Caplins from Nature-Link Institute accompanied a diverse group of students into the Himalaya. From June 1 to June 23, 2007 the group traveled from the hot plains of Delhi into the high altitude and alpine environments of the Garhwal.

The course began in Delhi, with the group spending one night in the city before catching an early morning train to Hardiwar and then onto Rishikesh for the night at a hotel. The following day the group traveled farther into the mountains via bus spending the night in the mountain community of Deval. In the morning the students were rewarded with there first morning yoga session taught by Divya Naithani, a yoga teacher trained at The Yog Institute, Mumbai. Divya has been teaching yoga since 2004, and practicing since 2001. The first yoga session began with some simple exercises as well as an explanation of the theory and purpose of yoga. After a relaxing morning the group traveled to Wan where they spent their first night in tents at a GMVN rest house. The next day the group trekked to Bedni gaining over 1000 meters in elevation and spending the night above tree line for the first time. Cool temperatures and questionable weather prompted the group to head toward Ali Bugyal, as the intended course from Baguwabasa to Roopkund was determined to be impassable due to snow. The night at Ali Bugyal really introduced the group to the grazing patterns of the region as herds of cows, sheep, goats, and horses made there way through camp in the afternoon and evening. As with every morning, the group rose to a morning yoga session held by Divya and after breaking camp trekked back to Bedni . The following day the group camped at Patar Nachonia at 4000 meters in elevation. Leaving Patar Nachonia., the group descended to the village of Kanol via a long ridge walk and some spectacular views of the surrounding peaks, spending the night at a GMVN rest house. The final day of trekking consisted of downhill travel to Setail and a jeep ride to Lata.

During their stay in Lata, students were able to observe first hand the daily activities of the local people as they worked in the fields and tended to their livelihoods. The students stayed in the winter homes of the people of Lata. After a few restful days in Lata, the group traveled to the northern portion of the Niti valley to the village of Ghamsali. On the road to Ghamsali, the group was able to experience the forces of nature at work, as an avalanche earlier in the season had obstructed the road. Walls of snow towered over the jeeps as the snow required digging through over three meters of avalanche debris to reach solid ground. Students were impressed with the shear power of the avalanche as once large trees appeared like broken toothpicks, the trees were stripped of there branches as was evident in the aftermath of piled snow. The night in Ghamsali was spent a few hours walk outside of the city, with camp made on a moraine overlooking the valley. The group was rewarded with spectacular views of the high altitude dessert terrain. After awakening to clear skies, the group traveled to Niti, the last village before the Tibetan border. In Niti, students were able to see the Tibetan influenced architecture as much of the village is decorated with intricate wood carvings.

The students then returned to Lata for a day and made a final trek to Lathi Kharak and Sani Kharak. The trek up was a strenuous one but everyone was able to enjoy the stunning views of the Niti Valley and Rishi gorge. Walking out to Sani Kharak, students were able to see many of the peaks of the NDBR core zone including, Trisul, Bethartoli, Nanda Gunti and Dronagiri. Unfortunately, the summut of Nanda Devi was obstructed by clouds. The descent from Sani kharak began the journey back home as the group retruned first to Lata, then made there way back to Rishikesh, Hardiwar, and Delhi. Once in Delhi the students explored the many sites of the city. The final adventure was a trip to the magnificent Taj Majal in Agra.

The town of Rishikesh was the next destination. Once here, the students had the chance to catch up on some lost sleep and take in the new surroundings. They also had the exceptional opportunity to participate in an Academic Interaction held at the Bharat Bhoomi Tourist Complex in Rishikesh on May 11, 2007. This was an excellent introduction to many of the socio-economic, cultural, and environmental issues associated with the Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve (NDBR) and its surrounding area. A total of nineteen students and teachers from GSU and ASU as well as students, researchers, and faculty members from Government Post Graduate College, Rishikesh (affiliated to HNB Garhwal University) were welcomed by Shri Nandan Singh of Gram Sabha of Lata. The event was organized by Mountain Shepherds Cooperative and coordinated by Dr. G.S. Rajwar. Discussions were coordinated by Dr. Keith Bosak and Dr. Anup Sinha of the USA.

The introductory statement for the 2007 Academic Interaction was put forth by Dr. Bosak who has been conducting research in and around the NDBR for the past ten years. He highlighted the importance of exchange as well as the significant value of a World Heritage Site governed by environmental policy that meets conservation standards as well as meeting the needs of the people.

Ian Snider, a student of ASU, conducted research for his Master’s degree on transhumance tribes around Lata and Reni. His presentation further expanded on the idea that the needs of the people must be met. Snider believes this goal can be reached through local participation in policy making and higher overall involvement from local populations. He felt this was a necessary component in promoting ecotourism in a way that benefits the local economy. Kelly Sheets, also from ASU, accompanied Snider during his research and performed her own research on traditions and practices of the transhumance tribes. She compared the practices from the Garhwal of Himalaya to those of the Appalachian Mountains, showing that mountain communities throughout the world are faced with common issues and that it is important to keep tradition alive despite widespread westernization.

Dr. G.S. Rajwar, an Environmentalist from Government Post Graduate College, spoke on the importance of developing resource databases called Biodiversity Registers. The registers will help promote ecotourism as well as provide insight on sustainable living practices. Local mountain people have been practicing sustainable living through utilization of medicinal plants, and other resources for farming, herding, and weaving. This indigenous knowledge will play a key role in conservation efforts.

Dr. Pankaj Pant, from the Geology department of Government Post Graduate College, called attention to the effects of climate change on glacier retreat. Dr. Pant focused his discussion on the Gangotri-Gaumukh Region and the implications of Global Warming to wildlife.

Dr. K.S. Rana, from the Geography department of Government Post Graduate College, summarized geography and plant diversity of the Uttarkashi district and advocated the development of ecotourism in Uttarakhand.

Dr. Sunil Kainthola spoke about the objectives and activities of Mountain

Shepherds Cooperative and the Nanda Devi Campaign. Dr. Kainthola supports the idea that the people should benefit from ecotourism and that more organizations like Mountain Shepherds will help accomplish this goal. Local youth are trained and take part in ecotourism and adventure tourism, directly improving the local economy of the people surrounding NDBR. He also stated the need for more researcher involvement to improve sustainable ecotourism practices.

For the GSU students, the Academic Interaction was an excellent introduction for the following weeks of travel and study that would take them towards the NDBR. After three nights in Rishikesh, the team headed to the mountain community of Deval where they set up camp for the first time. The following day, the students traveled to Wan in diesel-powered trucks, strong enough to withstand the absurdity of the mountain roads! Tents were assembled on a flat lawn just past a grove of 200 feet tall Cedar trees that overlooked a small farming village. A close examination of the intricately terraced hillsides used to grow a variety of crops revealed just one of the ways that people had learned to utilize the steep landscape.

From Wan, the group began the upward trek to Bedni. This was the first destination above tree line and it offered breath-taking views of snow-capped mountains that would occasionally creep from behind cloud cover to share their splendor with the weary hikers. The guides from Mountain Shepherds provided the group with warm, freshly cooked Pakoras and hot Chai soon after arrival which held the team over till dinner.

The journey continued the next morning towards the next camp at Patar Nachania. The students woke the next morning and prepared for a day hike to Baguwbasa that turned into a mad dash back to camp to escape the hail storm at 13,500 feet! Once back at camp, the following three hours were spent waiting for the storm to pass. The hail eventually ceased and then it began to rain. It sheeted down sideways and was accompanied by high intensity thunder and lightning that reminded the group how close they were to the clouds. Some time passed and the rain turned to snow that fell in golf ball size flakes to the earth’s surface which was now covered in a strange mix of slush, ice pellets, and water. The fluffy white layer was the perfect coating for the conglomeration.

During the course of the storm, Dr. Bosak and Ms. Wallach provided the students with instruction on how to stay warm and get dry and the guides from Mountain Shepherds were incredibly helpful. While students remained under shelter, the guides stabilized the wind blown tents and even brought hot chocolate, chai, and cookies to each person. The kitchen collapsed during the course of the storm but the guides still managed to prepare a delicious, warm dinner after it had all ended.

The view the following morning showed a whole new side to Himalaya. The clouds had passed and the sky was clear. The landscape was dusted in snow and ice and the surrounding beauty was overwhelming. It provided the group with just enough inspiration to collect their damp items, pack them away, and begin the trek out.

The team passed through Kanol and then descended to Setail where jeeps were waiting to take them to the village of Lata. Here the students had the opportunity to sleep in a bed in a village home, take showers in a stall with a bucket of water, and participate in other village activities. Each student spent an afternoon with a local member of the community, helping them perform daily work. This allowed the students to learn about a different way of life through first-hand experience. Also in Lata, the members of the Mountain Shepherds were presented with the gear collected through the Gear for the Garhwal drive sponsored by Mast General Store, headquartered in the Appalachian Mountains for North Carolina. The gear donated ranged from external frame backpacks that are loved by porters for their ability to carry awkward loads to brand new tents generously donated by Mast General Store. In all, thousands of dollars worth of quality outdoor gear was donated and the Mountain Shepherds were tremendously grateful for the donations.

From Lata, the group trekked to Lathi Kharak which was an extremely difficult ascent to a forest service hut that provided shelter for the night. From Lathi Kharak, the group took in amazing 360° views of towering snow-covered peaks that were well worth the strenuous hike. The group returned to Lata and set out for another overnight trip to the terminus of the Niti Valley.

Students set up camp in Ghamsali and then traveled the following day to Niti, the last village in Uttarakhand before the Tibetan border. This was at one time, a thriving trade community with a very wealthy population. However, trade between India and China was banned in the early 60’s and the locals were forced to find income elsewhere. What remains of the lost wealth are buildings with intricate carvings and unique designs that are endemic to trading villages.

The group headed back to Lata and then began the slow journey back to Delhi to a four-star hotel with a pool and air conditioning. The last adventure was a day trip to Agra to see the Taj Mahal and other religious monuments along the way. The remaining few days in Delhi was spent experiencing the city life and reflecting on the past three weeks of travel.

On May 28, 2007, the students returned to the Delhi airport. Everyone was excited about going home, but also sad that the course was over. Each person experienced many new and exciting things and gained knowledge that will hopefully impact his or her life for many years to come.

On the Indo-Tibetan Frontier

Justine Wilson, one of the participants of the Inaugural Nanda Devi Women’s Trek, has posted her entire album of pictures from the India trip online. See it here.

Marking the thirtieth anniversary of the ill-fated 1976 Indo-American expedition that saw Nanda Devi Unsoeld, the twenty-two-year-old daughter of legendary mountaineer Willi Unsoeld perish on the peak that bore her name, the trek itself made history as the first venture of the wholly community-owned and operated Mountain Shepherds Initiative. Itself an outgrowth of the Nanda Devi Campaign, a five-year-old movement that had arisen out of even earlier environmental justice struggles by the people of the Nanda Devi Biosphere for their forest rights, the initiative hopes to set a model for socially conscious ecotourism in the entire Himalayan region.

To underline these goals, this first trek was organized as an exercise in mutual learning and exchange. Unlike the typical high end holiday package to the Himalayas, the participatory nature of the tour was emphasized, so that the newly trained guides and organizers could learn as much from the trekkers as they could themselves impart about the history, geography, and ecology of the Nanda Devi region.

The selection process itself for the all expenses-paid trip
(barring cost of travel to and from Lata) was an international affair with long-time campaign associates Keith Bosak in the US, Khila Bisht in the UK, and Pratibha Naithani in Mumbai interviewing candidates. Final choices out of over 60 applicants were made according to criteria that included interest and experience in women’s issues, mountain environments, and social justice.

It may be recalled that 40 youth from the upper reaches of Uttarakhand were enrolled in the basic training course at the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering this past August and September (Garhwal Post, 26 Sept.). Funded by the Winterline Foundation and organized through SPECS, the course was tailored specifically to prepare the boys for the Mountain Shepherds Initiative. Organizers including Janadhaar activist Sunil Kainthola and Dhan Singh Rana, himself a porter on the 1976 expedition, consider this trek an extension of that training, as a first opportunity to interact with international visitors.

Cleary, limited English skills posed a challenge, especially with the mainly North American teams. Moreover, the self-confidence of the guides needed to be nurtured by gaining experience through treks such as this one. However, despite their shyness, the trekkers did note that the boys were well-mannered, sweet, and extremely helpful.

Kainthola further adds that Mountain Shepherds will eventually plan trips directly from arrival in Delhi to Nanda Devi. This is to ensure that no trip is marred by the incidental horrors that often beset travelers to India, whether in being overcharged in Delhi to facing harassment in Hardwar, to transportation chaos on the roads. The specific experiences and critical input of the women trekkers will thus prove useful to evaluating future needs as they may arise.

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A unique graduation ceremony took place at the Nerhu Institute of Mountaineering on Saturday, where thirty-eight youth hailing mostly from the upper reaches of Chamoli, but also from Uttarkashi and Pithoragarh districts, completed their basic mountaineering course.

Organized by SPECS (Uttarakhand) and sponsored by the Winterline Foundation (USA), composed of alumni of the International Woodstock School in Mussoorie, the boys underwent the 35-day basic training regimen in preparation of the inaugural International Women’s Trek of the Nanda Devi Campaign later in October.

The programme, “Capacity Building for Community Based Ecotourism: Mountaineering Training for Local Youth in the High Himalayas” - was held from August 20 to September 23, 2006 at NIM.

Harshwanti Bisht, a mountaineering legend, and also one of the first women to scale the Nanda Devi summit was the keynote speaker. In an extensive in depth address, Dr. Bisht asked, “What is Ecotourism? It is not merely a matter of garbage collection but a philosophy in its own right.” She also noted the visionary way that the Nanda Devi Campaign had furthered this philosophy in its activities and initiatives, winning international acclaim in the process.

Rajiv Rawat, international representative of the Nanda Devi Campaign and the developer of its electronic outreach efforts, offered profound respects to not only the teachers at NIM and guests from the local communities of the High Himalayas, but also to the graduates. “These fine young men represent the future of the great state of Uttarakhand,” he said. “They will not only lead the next stage of the Nanda Devi Campaign, the Mountain Shepherds Initiative, but also the basis on which community-based ecotourism can truly flourish.”

Master of ceremonies for the event, NIM Vice-Principal Major Vishal Thapa, echoed these sentiments, noting that this ceremony was a unique moment for NIM, and perhaps a harbinger of things to come, as the idea of locally-based tourism for local employment takes root.

As the primary organizers of the training event, Sunil Kainthola of Janadhaar and Brijmohan Sharma of SPECS were on hand to felicitate the new “Mountain Shepherds.” They subseqently accompanied the boys to Mussoorie for a joint trek with students of the International Woodstock School.

It will be recalled that the Mountain Shepherds Initiative has selected these youths through the gram sabhas of far flung villages from among those who were already involved in one way or another in trekking activities. The programme at the NIM has provided value-addition to their skills from an institution that matches any other in the world.

Also present were the proud mothers of the youth hailing from the Mahila Mangal Dals of the Niti Valley, who had been especially invited for the occasion. Chanderprabha Aitwal, who scaled Nanda Devi along with Dr. Bisht, in turn blessed the boys.

In addition to the basic training course offered by NIM, the following special sessions specifically tailored to the needs of the Nanda Devi Campaign were also held:

• Three days dedicated to issues facing senior citizens and people with disabilities:
  
  Dr. Satyakam Dubey, National Institute for the Orthopaedically Handicapped
  
  Dr. Brijesh Sharma, National Institute for the Visually Handicapped
  
  Dr. Sunil Kainthola, past researcher, National Institute for the Visually Handicapped

• Session on the culture and history of Uttarakhand:
  
  Dr. Shekhar Pathak of PAHAR

• Sessions on flora identification and stargazing:
  
  Dr. G.S. Rajwar, Department of Botany, Government PG College Rishikesh
  
  Dr. Birender Kumar Tyagi, Senior Scientist at the Ministry of Science and Technology (Vigyan Prasad, India)

• Session on Mountain Tourism:
  
  Dr. Harshwanti Bisht

• Three days on communication skills:
  
  Subhash Rawat, Theatre in Education, National Institute of Drama

• Session on preserving and promoting local culture:
  
  Harish Chandola, veteran journalist of Hindustan Times

• Three day trek from Mussoorie:
  
  Drab Nagarwala, Hanifl Centre for Outdoor Education and Environmental Studies, International Woodstock School
  
  Tenzin Nima & Tsring, Momo Tours